Greek Finale

Alpha and/or Omega...which one is it? After 40 years it's hard to keep track.

Yes, the last time I was on the mainland of Greece was in July, 1967 and headed in a very different direction in more ways than one. It was my alpha odyssey that carried me far and wide over the course of two years and started my lifelong addition to travel.

Geographically that trip I was heading back to Turkey. It was a few months after the military junta and Greece was not a particularly great place to hang out under the circumstances. Things had been sketchy there since before the coup, February 1967, when I left for Egypt. I had definite misgivings about the country in general, but I had left the Christmas check my father sent with American Express to cash. Months later in Istanbul American Express told me I had to travel to Greece to access the money so off I went.

This trip it was a spur-of-the-moment decision to pick Athens as my departure airport to catch my flight back to Thailand. The other choice was Frankfurt and traveling through the Balkans to arrive at Athens sounded much more interesting.

Up to now, the choice had proven to be a good one. My journey the full length of the Adriatic coast was delightful; full of visits with friends, wonderful new treasure spots and surprises, with still more to come.

In spite of all the ominous warnings that the frontier can often be drawn-out and tedious going from Macedonia into Greece, we fared quite well. Everyone had proper support documents while our bus driver was seasoned from doing the run regularly and works the system well. The row of buses that proceeded us were still stationary when we were able to gear up and leave.

Arriving in Thessaloniki around midday meant I was better than on time. I was a half-day early so I needed to make a decision whether I stay over in Thessaloniki and wait for the cheaper train or go out that day on the evening express, due to arrive in Athens just shortly before midnight. Nothing about Thessaloniki made me want to stay, so I pressed on to Athens where the hotel I had booked for the following night did have room and was a short five minute walk from the station.

A full 36-hours to explore and relive memories from so long ago. Would anything look the same?

My first nice surprise was the new spiffy Metro system they put in before the Olympic games. A two block walk took me to the Larissis station on the main red line with connections everywhere. I headed straight for Syntagma Square and started my reaquaintence with Athens from there.

Up on the hill I could see the Acropolis clearly and, yes, the antiquities are at the core of Athens tourism. They seem to recognize this and appear to be making an effort to preserve them.

However, the throbbing soul of Athens in 1967 was to be found in the Plaka, that unique warren of winding coblestone streets and local shops. I had worked for a few weeks that first trip in a small leather shop and I was anxious to explore an area where I had so many fond memories.

The disappointment and sadness were immediate and the more I walked the more intense they became. Just where were all the little local craft shops? Where are the cottage industries and local artisans? Where, oh where are the Tavernas with locals playing dominoes or backgammon, fingering their worry beads and nursing their coffee or retsina? Simply gone and replaced by global trademarks like "United Colors of Beneton" and "Mango" stores. Slick glass and chrome numbers with an upscale look that could be anywhere on planet earth, interspersed with rows and rows of shops offering cheap plastic junk. Nothing quaint and unique to Greece.

It's one thing to set up chairs in the Orthodox churches; I see no reason the faithful should have to stand. But to allow global entrepeneurs to destroy a precious heritage, in my way of thinking, borders on the criminal. It's a ploy to attract tourism funds throughout the world, but at what a price. It highlights the movement all over the world to replace real in-depth travel with splashy tourism. Look fast and buy lots, but don't expect a seminal experience. It ignores the reason many of us chose to travel in the first place--a desire to understand and appreciate cultural differences around the globe. It factors the locals out of the equation and sadly diminishes the travel experience.

One day in my memory bubble was all I was up to. Fortunately I was scheduled to fly out the following day and not test my meloncholy limits any further. It was omega time for this trip.

Macedonia Stopover

I was booked on the overnight bus out of Dubrovnik going direct to Skopje. Heading off down the coast before night the panarama was spectacular and I had one more short sea experience on the ferry.

Managed to sleep on and off and in between naps I produced my passport several times--I lost count after a while. I didn't need any visas and as long as it came back to me, I didn't care who stamped it.

For once this trip I was most assuredly going in the right direction. We encountered huge lines of traffic coming in the opposite direction at every immigration point, but no delays for us.

After a long night crossing three countries, winding our way through the mountains of Montenegro, we pulled into Skopje early Saturday morning. With only a three-day time window before my flight out of Athens back to Thailand, I checked first off on transport options. Three times weekly (Monday, Wednesday and Friday) there is a bus out to Thessaloniki. That cuts it close, but is still doable, so I booked a seat straight off for the Monday bus. That gives me two full days to explore Skopje, a completely random added extra venue on my itinerary. An unplanned surprise that turned out to be a gem.

Founded in the 3rd Century BC, it was under Roman rule from 148 BC. In it's newer history it was part of the Ottomen Empire for over 500 years (since 392 AD), and the ancient center has a very Turkish feel. Captured by Serbs before WW I, and under Bulgarian occupation during WW II, it became part of Yugoslavia following the war.

Situated on the Vardar River, the old district has both ancient Roman aqueducts and notable buildings from the Ottoman era. Skopje is purported to be the birth place of the Byzantine Emperor, Justian.

Two nice hostels not far apart from each other nor far from the central area. Great Turkish coffee in the old quarter, and the reccommended meal is kabab. Succulent and spicy grilled ground lamb rolls served with small roasted red peppers. Good local beer to wash it down.

I went to the National Museum where they gave me a New Year Greeting card in four languages as my entry ticket. Small eclectic collection in a spectacular building.

Early Monday morning I boarded the mini-van going to Thessaloniki. Still within the limitations of my tight schedule. It's the bane of solo travelers that the new era of steep [read astronomical] flight costs require advance booking with no change options, as I hate traveling with urgent deadlines. I would love to stay on in Macedonia and go out to Okra Lake, but it has to wait until next visit.

Lovely Ljubljana

A spectacular train ride through the Austrian Alps brought me to Ljubljana, Slovenia where my friend Aljonka lives. As I had visited in 2007, I knew already how lovely Ljubljana is and was eagerly looking forward to another visit.

For such a small country, Solvenia is blessed with lots of variety--four major geographic regions. Dramatic alpine regions, Pannonian plains, forests that still are homes to the dimishing bear populations in eastern Europe, and the sun-drenched Adriatic coast.

Two earthquakes about 400 years apart resulted in the architectural mix one finds in the Ljubljana--Baroque that emerged after the first quake and the Art Nouveau style that followed the second quake.

They boast a 1,000 year old Medieval castle which is under reconstruction, so much is not open. However, the view from the hill it is perched on is fantastic.

The symbol of the city is the Dragon and I am particularly fond of the Dragon Bridge over the river. I am a Dragon by birth on the Chinese astrological scale, so I feel a kinship with all things related.

My first visit to Slovenia, my friend introduced me to a vast range of the country, from the shores of Lake Bled, to the Dolomite Alps and the limited but lovely coastal area. During this visit the pace was a little slower, but did include both mountains and sea.

As with my visit last year, it ended on the coast. Two glorious days enjoying the fresh Adriatic breeze. One day was spent sailing with friends on a Catamaran, and then it was time to head out south for Greece and my eventual return to Thailand.